Utility Trailer Parts

What Makes Utility Trailers Different?

Utility trailers are the workhorses of America—built for versatility, durability, and dependability. Whether you’re hauling landscaping equipment, ATVs, furniture, or construction materials, understanding your trailer’s components is essential for safe operation and long-term reliability.

This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about utility trailer parts, from basic maintenance to complex repairs. We’ve spent 30+ years helping trailer owners across all 50 states, and we’re sharing that knowledge with you.

MAJOR PARTS CATEGORIES

CARD 1: AXLES & SUSPENSION

The foundation of your trailer’s load-bearing capability. Proper axle selection and maintenance ensures safe towing and longevity.

Key Points:

• Single vs. Tandem axle configurations
• Weight capacity ratings (2K-7K lbs typical)
• Leaf spring and torsion systems
• Axle hubs and bearings
• Dexter and Axles Plus quality options

What You Need to Know: Your axle rating must match or exceed your trailer’s GVWR. Check the stamp on your axle tube for current rating. Most utility trailers use 3,500 lb axles, but verify before ordering replacements.

Common Problems:

• Bearing noise or grinding
• Uneven tire wear
• Trailer pulling to one side
• Hub running hot after driving

CARD 2: TIRES & WHEELS

Critical for safe towing. The right tire size, load rating, and pressure are non-negotiable for trailer safety.

Key Points:

• Common sizes: 4.80-12, 5.30-12, ST175/80R13, ST205/75D15
• Load range ratings (B, C, D, E)
• Radial vs. bias ply construction
• Wheel bolt patterns and hub compatibility
• ST (Special Trailer) rated tires required

What You Need to Know: Never use passenger car tires on trailers – they will fail. ST-rated tires have reinforced sidewalls designed for trailing loads. Replace tires over 6 years old regardless of tread depth.

Common Problems:

• Uneven or rapid tire wear
• Tire age deterioration (cracking)
• Wrong load range for weight
• Improper inflation

Critical Safety Note: Check tire pressure before EVERY trip when tires are cold. Typical ST trailer tires require 50-65 PSI.

CARD 3: ELECTRICAL & LIGHTING

Your electrical system keeps you legal and visible. Proper wiring prevents roadside failures and citations.

Key Points:

• 4-way, 5-way, and 7-way connectors
• LED vs. incandescent lights
• Wiring harnesses and ground connections
• Side markers and clearance lights
• Weatherproof connections

What You Need to Know: Most trailer light problems are caused by poor ground connections. The white ground wire must connect to clean, bare metal on the trailer frame – not paint or rust.

Common Problems:

• Lights work when tested but fail when connected
• Intermittent light operation
• Dim or flickering lights
• Corrosion in connector pins
• Wrong lights activating

Quick Fix: Clean connector pins with electrical contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

CARD 4: BRAKES & SAFETY

Essential for trailers over 3,000 lbs. Electric brakes provide controlled stopping power and legal compliance.

Key Points:

• Electric brake assemblies (10″ and 12″)
• Brake controllers and actuators
• Breakaway systems with battery backup
• Hydraulic surge brake options
• Dexter and Lippert brake quality

What You Need to Know: Federal law requires brakes on trailers over 3,000 lbs GVWR. Many states require them at lower weights. Breakaway systems are mandatory on all braked trailers.

Common Problems:

• Brakes not engaging or weak braking
• One wheel locks up
• Brake controller shows no output
• Breakaway battery dead
• Magnets worn or damaged

Maintenance Schedule: Inspect brake linings every 6 months. Replace when lining is less than 1/16″ thick. Test breakaway system monthly.

CARD 5: COUPLERS & HITCHES

The critical connection between your tow vehicle and trailer. Proper sizing and maintenance prevents accidents.

Key Points:

• 2″ and 2-5/16″ coupler sizes
• Class ratings (I through V)
• Safety chains and clips required
• Adjustable height options
• Latch mechanisms and locks

What You Need to Know: Your coupler size MUST match your ball size exactly. A 2″ coupler on a 2-5/16″ ball (or vice versa) is extremely dangerous and will fail.

Common Problems:

• Coupler won’t latch or release
• Rust and corrosion
• Wrong size ball for coupler
• Safety chains too long or damaged
• Worn coupler socket

Safety Requirement: Two crossed safety chains rated for trailer GVWR are mandatory. Chains should be just short enough to keep coupler off ground if detached.

CARD 6: FENDERS & BODY PARTS

Protect your cargo and comply with regulations. Fenders prevent road debris from damaging your load.

Key Points:

• Steel vs. plastic construction
• Single and tandem axle coverage
• Mounting brackets and hardware
• Ramps and tailgate options
• Replacement side rails

What You Need to Know: Fenders are required by law in most states. They must cover the top of the tire when loaded and extend low enough to protect against road spray.

Common Upgrades:

• Heavy-duty steel fenders for work trailers
• Removable fenders for oversized loads
• Spring-loaded gate assists
• Aluminum ramps (lighter weight)

TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION

PROBLEM 1: TRAILER LIGHTS NOT WORKING

Most Common Cause: Bad ground connection or corroded wiring connector

Symptoms:

• All lights dead when connected to vehicle
• Lights work with test power but not when hooked up
• One side works, other doesn’t
• Intermittent operation

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Check ground connection – Locate white ground wire connection to trailer frame. Must be on clean bare metal, not paint or rust.
2. Clean connector pins – Disconnect 4-way/5-way/7-way plug. Spray both male and female sides with electrical contact cleaner. Dry thoroughly.
3. Test for continuity – Use multimeter to test each wire from connector to corresponding light. Should read near 0 ohms.
4. Inspect for damage – Look for pinched, cut, or exposed wires along frame and near lights.
5. Apply protective coating – After repair, coat connector pins with dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

Prevention Tips:

• Store with weatherproof cover over connector
• Unplug when not in use for extended periods
• Inspect before every trip
• Consider upgrading to sealed LED lights

When to Call a Pro: If problem persists after cleaning grounds and connections, you may have internal wiring damage requiring harness replacement.

PROBLEM 2: WHEEL WOBBLE OR GRINDING NOISE

Most Common Cause: Worn wheel bearings or improper bearing adjustment

Symptoms:

• Grinding or rumbling noise from wheel
• Wheel feels loose when rocked
• Excessive heat from hub after driving
• Uneven tire wear on affected wheel

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Safety first – Jack up trailer securely on level ground. Use jack stands. Never work under trailer on jack alone.
2. Test for play – Grab tire at top and bottom, try to rock back and forth. Any movement indicates loose or worn bearings.
3. Spin test – Spin wheel by hand. Should rotate smoothly without roughness or noise.
4. Inspect hub temperature – After a drive, carefully touch hub (may be hot). Should be warm but not too hot to touch.
5. Repack bearings – Remove hub, clean old grease completely, inspect bearings and races for pitting or damage. Replace if damaged, repack with marine-grade wheel bearing grease if good.
6. Proper adjustment – Tighten castle nut while spinning wheel, then back off 1/4 turn. Wheel should spin freely with minimal play. Install cotter pin.

Parts You May Need:

• Bearing kit (inner/outer bearings, races, seals, cotter pin)
• Marine-grade wheel bearing grease
• Brake cleaner for cleaning old grease

Prevention Schedule: Repack wheel bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles. More frequently if trailer is submerged in water (boat trailers).

PROBLEM 3: BRAKES NOT ENGAGING PROPERLY

Most Common Cause: Faulty brake controller, weak magnet, or wiring issue

Symptoms:

• Little to no braking force from trailer
• Brake controller shows no output
• Brakes engage on one side only
• Smell of burning from brakes

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Test controller – Use voltmeter on brake controller output wire. Should show 0-12V when manually activating. No voltage = bad controller.
2. Check power at wheels – Test voltage at brake assembly connector while assistant activates brakes. Should match controller output.
3. Test magnet resistance – Disconnect brake wire, measure resistance across magnet. Should read 3-4 ohms. Open circuit = bad magnet.
4. Inspect brake shoes – Remove drum and measure brake lining thickness. Minimum 1/16″ required. Replace if worn.
5. Check adjustment – If brakes are adjusted too loose, they won’t contact drum. Use star wheel to adjust until slight drag when spinning wheel.
6. Verify grounding – Brake assemblies must be well-grounded to trailer frame for proper operation.

Common Causes:

• Worn brake magnets (most common on older trailers)
• Glazed or contaminated brake shoes
• Incorrect controller settings for trailer weight
• Corroded connections in brake circuit
• Damaged wiring from road debris

Adjustment Procedure: Jack up trailer, spin wheel forward, adjust star wheel until brake drags, then back off until wheel spins freely. Repeat for all wheels.

PROBLEM 4: UNEVEN OR RAPID TIRE WEAR

Most Common Cause: Improper tire pressure, overloading, or alignment problems

Symptoms:

• One side of tire worn more than other
• Center worn but edges good (overinflation)
• Edges worn but center good (underinflation)
• Tires wearing out in less than 2 years

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Check pressure immediately – Use accurate gauge when tires are cold. Inflate to pressure shown on tire sidewall (typically 50-65 PSI for ST tires).
2. Verify load rating – Check tire sidewall for load range and max weight. Total tire capacity must exceed trailer GVWR divided by number of tires.
3. Inspect for damage – Look for bent axle, damaged spindle, or suspension damage that would cause misalignment.
4. Check loading – Ensure load is centered and not exceeding axle ratings. Measure tongue weight (should be 10-15% of total weight).
5. Examine tire age – Check DOT date code on sidewall. Tires over 6 years old should be replaced regardless of tread depth.

Wear Patterns Decoded:

• Cupping/scalloping: Worn bearings or bad shocks
• One edge only: Axle out of alignment
• Center worn: Overinflation
• Edges worn: Underinflation
• Feathering: Toe alignment issue

Prevention:

• Check pressure before every trip
• Rotate tires annually
• Never exceed load ratings
• Store with tire covers when not in use
• Replace in pairs on same axle

PROBLEM 5: TRAILER BOUNCING OR FISHTAILING

Most Common Cause: Improper tongue weight or worn suspension components

Symptoms:

• Trailer sways side to side at highway speeds
• Excessive bouncing over bumps
• Difficult to control in crosswinds
• Rear of tow vehicle lifts when connected

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Measure tongue weight – Use bathroom scale method or tongue weight scale. Should be 10-15% of total loaded trailer weight.
2. Reposition load – Move heavy items toward front of trailer. Rule of thumb: 60% of weight in front 60% of bed.
3. Inspect suspension – Check for broken leaf springs, worn shackles, or damaged equalizers (on tandem axles).
4. Verify tire pressure – Low tire pressure causes excessive sway. Check all tires.
5. Consider weight distribution hitch – If tongue weight is correct but still swaying, WD hitch transfers some weight to tow vehicle front axle.
6. Add sway control – Friction or electronic sway control devices can help, but don’t mask underlying problems.

Critical Measurements:

• Tongue weight: 10-15% of GTW (too light = sway, too heavy = poor handling)
• Tow vehicle: Trailer weight should be under 85% of vehicle’s tow rating
• Hitch height: Trailer should be level when loaded

When to Get Professional Help: If repositioning load doesn’t fix sway, have axle alignment checked. Bent axle or frame damage requires professional repair.

PROBLEM 6: COUPLER WON’T LATCH OR RELEASE

Most Common Cause: Rust, debris, or mismatch between ball and coupler size

Symptoms:

• Latch won’t close over ball
• Coupler stuck on ball, won’t release
• Grinding or resistance when operating latch
• Excessive play when latched

Step-by-Step Solution:

1. Verify correct size – Measure ball diameter precisely. 2″ and 2-5/16″ are NOT interchangeable. Coupler must match exactly.
2. Clean thoroughly – Remove rust, dirt, and old grease from coupler cavity and latch mechanism. Use wire brush and penetrating oil.
3. Lubricate properly – Apply white lithium grease to ball, latch mechanism, and pivot points. Do NOT use oil (attracts dirt).
4. Check latch operation – Operate latch by hand several times. Should move smoothly. Spray mechanism with penetrating lubricant if sticky.
5. Inspect for wear – Look inside coupler for deformed metal or excessive wear. Couplers do wear out and must be replaced.
6. Test ball condition – Ball should be smooth with no flat spots or pitting. Replace if damaged.

If Stuck on Ball:

• Spray penetrating oil around coupler
• Jack trailer tongue up slightly to relieve pressure
• Operate latch while rocking tongue up and down
• May need to tap latch with hammer while pulling release
• Last resort: Cut safety chains and use come-along to pull apart (replace coupler after)

Prevention:

• Lubricate every month
• Cover when stored
• Replace worn components promptly
• Keep spare coupler for emergencies

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

BEFORE EVERY TRIP (5-Minute Safety Check)

✅ Check tire pressure (all tires including spare) – inflate to sidewall rating ✅ Verify all lights function (brake, turn signal, running lights) ✅ Inspect coupler lock and safety chains – ensure properly attached ✅ Test trailer brakes (if equipped) – activate controller manually ✅ Check wheel lug nuts for proper torque – use torque wrench ✅ Verify load is secured and within weight limits ✅ Walk around inspection for obvious damage or loose components

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE

✅ Lubricate coupler ball with white lithium grease ✅ Check all bolts and fasteners for tightness ✅ Inspect wiring for damage, cuts, or exposed wire ✅ Test breakaway switch and check battery voltage (if equipped) ✅ Clean connector plug, apply dielectric grease to pins ✅ Inspect fenders and body for rust or structural damage ✅ Verify jack operates smoothly, grease jack mechanism ✅ Check for any unusual tire wear patterns

Time Required: 15-20 minutes

EVERY 3,000 MILES OR 6 MONTHS

✅ Repack wheel bearings with marine-grade grease (CRITICAL) ✅ Inspect brake linings for wear – minimum 1/16″ thickness required ✅ Torque lug nuts to manufacturer specifications ✅ Measure tire tread depth – replace if less than 4/32″ ✅ Inspect leaf springs for cracks, broken leaves, or damage ✅ Check U-bolt torque on axle mounting ✅ Test brake magnet resistance – should read 3-4 ohms ✅ Inspect safety chain attachment points ✅ Check frame for cracks or stress damage

Time Required: 2-3 hours or $150-250 professional service

ANNUAL SERVICE (Comprehensive)

✅ Replace wheel bearing grease seals ✅ Inspect and adjust electric brake shoes ✅ Replace breakaway battery (every 2 years maximum) ✅ Check axle alignment and suspension geometry ✅ Inspect frame thoroughly for cracks or fatigue ✅ Touch up paint and apply rust preventive to exposed metal ✅ Verify coupler and ball are not excessively worn ✅ Replace tires over 6 years old regardless of tread depth ✅ Inspect wiring harness completely – replace if damaged ✅ Check tongue jack for wear and operation ✅ Service suspension components (shackles, bushings) ✅ Drain and inspect any enclosed spaces for rust

Time Required: 4-6 hours or $300-500 professional service

AFTER WATER SUBMERSION (Boat Trailer Protocol)

⚠️ CRITICAL – Do Immediately After Each Boat Launch

✅ Repack all wheel bearings (water intrusion is common) ✅ Flush brake assemblies with fresh water ✅ Check for water in hubs – look for milky grease ✅ Dry and lubricate all moving parts ✅ Inspect wiring for water intrusion in connectors ✅ Allow brakes to dry completely before driving ✅ Check for rust formation, apply preventive coating

Why This Matters: Water, especially salt water, destroys bearings and brakes rapidly. Immediate service after submersion can prevent $1,000+ in damage.

PARTS COMPATIBILITY CHART

Trailer Size	Typical Axle Rating	Common Tire Sizes	Wheel Bolt Pattern	Brake Size	Coupler Size
5′ x 8′ Single Axle	2,000 – 3,500 lbs	4.80-12, 5.30-12	4 on 4″	None (unbraked)	2″
5′ x 10′ Single Axle	2,990 – 3,500 lbs	ST175/80D13, ST205/75D14	5 on 4.5″	10″ electric	2″
6′ x 10′ Single Axle	3,500 lbs	ST205/75D15, ST225/75D15	5 on 4.5″	10″ electric	2″ or 2-5/16″
6′ x 12′ Tandem Axle	3,500 lbs each (7K total)	ST205/75D15	5 on 4.5″	10″ electric	2-5/16″
7′ x 14′ Tandem Axle	3,500 – 5,200 lbs each	ST225/75R15, ST205/75R15	5 on 4.5″ or 6 on 5.5″	12″ electric	2-5/16″
7′ x 16′ Tandem Axle	5,200 – 7,000 lbs each	ST225/75R15, ST235/80R16	6 on 5.5″	12″ electric	2-5/16″

CRITICAL COMPATIBILITY NOTES

Before ordering ANY parts, verify these specifications:

✓ Axle Rating – Load rating stamped on axle tube must match or exceed trailer GVWR ✓ Tire Load Range – Must support (axle rating ÷ number of tires) × safety factor ✓ Brake Capacity – Should be rated for at least 50% of trailer’s loaded weight ✓ Wheel Bolt Pattern – MUST match hub exactly. 5 on 4.5″ does NOT fit 5 on 5″ ✓ Coupler Size – Must match ball size EXACTLY. 2″ and 2-5/16″ are NOT interchangeable

How to Measure Bolt Pattern:

• 4-bolt: Measure center-to-center across the circle
• 5-bolt: Measure from center of one bolt to center of opposite space
• 6-bolt: Measure center-to-center of opposite bolts

Still Not Sure? Call us at 903.572.0288 with your trailer’s VIN or manufacturer info and we’ll identify the correct parts.

SAFETY REQUIREMENTS & REGULATIONS

Federal Brake Requirements (FMVSS 105)

Trailers MUST have brakes if:

• GVWR exceeds 3,000 lbs
• Weight of trailer + load exceeds 3,000 lbs

Additional requirements for braked trailers:

• Brakes required on all wheels if GVWR exceeds 5,000 lbs
• Functional breakaway system required on ALL braked trailers
• Brake controller required in tow vehicle
• Breakaway battery must be charged and functional

State laws may be more restrictive – Some states require brakes at 1,500-2,000 lbs. Check your local DMV.

Lighting Requirements (Federal & Most States)

Every trailer must have:

✅ Two red taillights (rear corners) ✅ Two amber or red turn signals (can be combined with taillights) ✅ White license plate light ✅ Red rear reflectors (two on rear, additional on sides) ✅ Amber side marker lights and reflectors (if over 80″ wide or 30′ long)

Proper Function Requirements:

• All lights must be visible from 500 feet
• No lights obstructed by load
• License plate must be illuminated and readable
• No cracked lenses or exposed bulbs

LED vs. Incandescent: We strongly recommend LED lights – they last longer, draw less power, and are much more resistant to vibration damage.

Safety Chain Requirements

Mandatory on ALL trailers:

✓ Two chains crossed under tongue in X pattern ✓ Strength rating equal to or greater than trailer GVWR ✓ Length just short enough to prevent coupler from hitting ground if detached ✓ Attachment to frame, not bumper or light-duty mounting point ✓ Condition no damaged, stretched, or broken links

Proper Connection:

1. Cross chains under tongue to form an X
2. Connect to tow vehicle frame or hitch-mounted connection points
3. Should have enough slack to allow turning but catch coupler if detached
4. Secure with safety clips on hooks

Load & Weight Safety

Critical Weight Measurements:

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)

• Maximum trailer can weigh fully loaded
• Includes trailer weight + cargo + tongue weight
• Never exceed this rating

Tongue Weight

• Should be 10-15% of total loaded weight
• Too light: trailer will sway
• Too heavy: poor tow vehicle handling

Axle Rating

• Maximum weight each axle can support
• Must not exceed even if GVWR allows more weight

Tire Load Capacity

• Each tire has maximum load rating
• Total tire capacity must exceed GVWR

Proper Loading Procedure:

1. Weigh empty trailer (including full propane tanks, battery, spare)
2. Calculate cargo capacity (GVWR – trailer weight)
3. Load heaviest items in front 60% of bed
4. Distribute side-to-side evenly
5. Secure ALL loads to prevent shifting
6. Verify tongue weight is 10-15% of total
7. Verify tire pressures are correct for load

Tire Safety Standards

ST (Special Trailer) Tires Required:

❌ NEVER use passenger (P) or light truck (LT) tires on trailers ✅ ONLY use ST-rated trailer tires

Why ST Tires Matter:

• Stiffer sidewalls prevent trailer sway
• Designed for trailing loads (different from driving)
• Can handle sustained highway speeds fully loaded
• Better heat dissipation for trailer-specific stresses

Tire Age Limits:

• Replace at 6 years regardless of tread depth
• Check DOT date code on sidewall (4-digit code = week/year)
• Rubber degrades with UV exposure even if unused

Pressure Requirements:

• Check when cold (before driving)
• Inflate to pressure shown on tire sidewall
• Typical range: 50-65 PSI for ST tires
• Check before EVERY trip without exception

SMART PARTS BUYING GUIDE

What Information to Have Ready

When calling to order parts, have this information:

Trailer Identification:

• Make, model, and year
• VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)
• Trailer dimensions (length, width)

Current Part Specifications:

• Axle weight rating (stamped on axle tube)
• Tire size (on sidewall: e.g., ST205/75D15)
• Wheel bolt pattern (e.g., 5 on 4.5″)
• Brake size (10″ or 12″ diameter)
• Existing part numbers (if available)

Application Details:

• Typical load weight
• How often trailer is used
• Type of cargo (equipment, materials, vehicles)
• Operating conditions (highway, off-road, boat launch)

Pro Tip: Take photos of part numbers, stampings, and damaged parts. Text or email to 903.572.0288 for instant identification.

OEM vs. Aftermarket Parts Decision

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Parts: ✅ Guaranteed exact fit for your specific trailer ✅ Manufacturer warranty ✅ Same as what came with new trailer ❌ Highest cost ❌ Limited availability for older trailers

Quality Aftermarket (Dexter, Lippert, Taskmaster): ✅ Equal or better quality than OEM ✅ Excellent warranty coverage ✅ Wide availability and fast shipping ✅ Better value per dollar ✅ Often improved design vs. original

Economy Aftermarket: ✅ Lowest cost option ✅ Adequate for light-duty use ❌ Shorter lifespan ❌ Limited warranty ❌ May not hold up under heavy use

Our Recommendation: For critical safety components (brakes, axles, couplers), always choose OEM or quality aftermarket brands. For accessories and cosmetic parts, economy options can be suitable.

Brands We Trust:

• Axles: Dexter, Lippert, Axles Plus
• Brakes: Dexter, Lippert
• Tires: Carlisle, Goodyear Marathon, Taskmaster
• Electrical: Optronics, Peterson, Bargman
• Couplers: Bulldog, Reese, Fulton

When to Upgrade vs. Replace Same Spec

Consider UPGRADING when:

✅ Increasing capacity – Moving to heavier loads regularly ✅ Adding brakes – Safety upgrade for unbraked trailer over 2,000 lbs ✅ Switching to LED lights – More reliable, longer lasting, less power draw ✅ Upgrading to torsion axles – Smoother ride, independent suspension ✅ Installing better tires – Higher load range for heavier use ✅ Adding breakaway system – Required by law but also just smart

Warning – Never DOWNGRADE:

• Lighter duty axles
• Lower capacity tires
• Smaller brake assemblies
• Weaker coupler rating

Downgrading safety components is dangerous and may be illegal.

Bulk Ordering & Dealer Pricing

We Serve 200+ Trailer Dealers Nationwide

Volume Discounts Available:

• 10+ units of same part
• Fleet maintenance packages
• Dealer accounts with NET 30 terms
• Seasonal inventory purchases

Dealer Account Benefits: ✅ Wholesale pricing (up to 40% off retail) ✅ NET 30 payment terms (approved credit) ✅ Dedicated account manager ✅ Priority order processing ✅ Custom inventory programs ✅ Drop shipping available ✅ Marketing support materials

To Open Dealer Account: Call 903.572.0288 and ask for dealer services. We’ll need:

• Business license
• Resale certificate
• Credit application
• Trade references

DIY Customer Discounts: Even non-dealers can save on quantity orders. Buying multiple trailers worth of parts? Call for special pricing.

SHIPPING & DELIVERY

We Ship to All 50 States

Standard Shipping

• Small Parts (lights, couplers, bearings): UPS/FedEx Ground
• Typical Transit: 2-5 business days
• Tracking: Provided via email automatically
• Most Orders Ship: Same or next business day if ordered by 2 PM CST

Freight Shipping

• Large/Heavy Items (axles, multiple wheels, bulk orders)
• LTL Freight: Common carrier delivery
• Delivery: Curbside at residential, dock at commercial
• Liftgate Service: Available for additional fee if no dock

Local Pickup

Mount Pleasant, TX Location: 1495 County Road 3320 Mount Pleasant, TX 75455

Pickup Hours: Monday – Friday: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM CST Saturday: Closed Sunday: Closed

Pickup Advantages:

• No shipping charges
• Immediate availability
• Inspect before leaving
• Expert advice in person

Emergency Rush Delivery

Need parts TODAY? Call 903.572.0288

We offer:

• Same-day local delivery (Mount Pleasant area)
• Overnight shipping (order by 12 PM)
• Direct delivery to repair shop
• Mobile installation referrals

INSTALLATION SUPPORT

You’re Not Alone – We’re Here to Help

Free Phone Support

Call 903.572.0288 during business hours for:

• Installation guidance
• Troubleshooting help
• Torque specifications
• Tool recommendations
• Part verification

Installation Resources

• Detailed installation instructions included with parts
• Video tutorials for common repairs (coming soon)
• PDF guides downloadable from our site
• Wiring diagrams for electrical components

Professional Installation Referrals

Not comfortable with DIY? We can recommend:

• Qualified trailer shops in your area
• Mobile mechanics (some areas)
• Dealers who offer installation
• Fleet maintenance services

Special Tools Available

Some repairs require special tools:

• Bearing packers
• Torque wrenches
• Brake adjustment tools
• Spindle nut sockets

Ask about tool rentals or purchase when ordering parts.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: How do I know what size axle I need?

A: Your axle rating should match or exceed your trailer’s GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). To determine the right size:

1. Check your trailer’s VIN plate or title for GVWR
2. For single axle: axle rating = GVWR
3. For tandem axle: each axle rating ≥ GVWR ÷ 2

Common utility trailer axle ratings: 2,000 / 3,500 / 5,200 / 7,000 lbs

The rating is stamped on the axle tube. If you can’t read it, measure from spring center to spring center and call us with trailer info – we’ll identify the correct replacement.

Important: Never downgrade to a lighter axle. Always match or upgrade capacity.

Q: Can I use car tires on my trailer?

A: Absolutely not. This is dangerous and illegal.

Trailer tires must be ST-rated (Special Trailer). Here’s why passenger car tires will fail:

• Trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls to prevent sway
• They’re designed for trailing loads (different stress than driving)
• ST tires handle sustained highway speeds when fully loaded
• Passenger tires will overheat and fail catastrophically

The Danger: Using car tires dramatically increases risk of blowout, which can cause loss of control and serious accidents.

Always use ST-rated tires of the correct size and load range for your trailer’s weight.

Q: How often should I repack wheel bearings?

A: Standard Schedule – Every 12 months OR 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.

More Frequently If:

• Trailer is submerged in water (boat trailers – do immediately after each launch)
• Driving in dusty, muddy, or sandy conditions regularly
• Trailer sits unused for 6+ months
• You hear any grinding, rumbling, or noise from wheels
• Hub feels excessively hot after driving

Critical for Boat Trailers: Water intrusion is extremely common when launching boats. Repack bearings immediately after each saltwater submersion, and within a day or two after freshwater submersion.

Warning Signs You Waited Too Long:

• Grinding or rumbling noise
• Wheel wobble or excessive play
• Hub too hot to touch after driving
• Milky-looking grease (water contamination)

What We Recommend: Use marine-grade, high-temperature wheel bearing grease. Regular automotive grease will fail under trailer conditions. We stock complete bearing kits with bearings, races, seals, and proper grease.

Q: What’s the difference between electric and surge brakes?

Electric Brakes:

• Activated by controller in tow vehicle
• Requires 7-way connector and breakaway system
• Manual control and sensitivity adjustment
• Most common on utility trailers
• Better control and easier maintenance
• Requires controller installation in vehicle

Surge Brakes (Hydraulic):

• Self-contained master cylinder on tongue
• Activates when trailer pushes against hitch
• No controller needed in vehicle
• Works with any tow vehicle (just need ball)
• Common on boat trailers
• More expensive to repair
• Can activate when backing up (requires lockout)

Our Recommendation: For utility trailers, electric brakes provide superior control and are easier to maintain. The controller allows you to adjust braking force and manually activate brakes independent of vehicle brakes.

Exception: Surge brakes work well for boat trailers since they handle water submersion better and allow towing with different vehicles without controller installation.

Q: Why do my trailer lights work when tested but fail when hooked up?

A: Almost always caused by poor ground connection.

Here’s what’s happening:

When you test lights with a separate 12V battery, each light grounds through its connection to the trailer frame. When connected to your tow vehicle, all circuits share a common ground through the connector’s white wire.

If that shared ground is bad:

• Lights may not work at all
• They work intermittently
• One circuit “backfeeds” through another
• You see dim lights or wrong lights activating

The Fix:

1. Locate where white ground wire connects to trailer frame
2. Connection must be on clean, bare metal (not paint or rust)
3. Remove connection, clean both wire terminal and frame with wire brush
4. Reconnect with star washer for better contact
5. Clean connector pins on both trailer and vehicle
6. Apply dielectric grease to pins to prevent corrosion

Prevention:

• Clean and grease connector every 3 months
• Store with weatherproof cover
• Consider upgrading to sealed LED lights

Q: Do I really need brakes on my utility trailer?

Federal Law: Required if GVWR exceeds 3,000 lbs.

Many states more restrictive: Some require brakes at 1,500 or 2,000 lbs GVWR.

Our Strong Recommendation: Even if not legally required, install brakes if you’re regularly towing 2,000+ lbs. Here’s why:

✅ Safety – Dramatically reduces stopping distance ✅ Control – Prevents jackknifing and loss of control ✅ Vehicle Protection – Reduces wear on tow vehicle brakes ✅ Legal Compliance – Required in many states at lower weights ✅ Insurance – Some policies require brakes at certain weights

Most 5′ x 10′ and larger utility trailers benefit from brakes.

If Your Trailer Has Brakes: You MUST have a functioning breakaway system. This is non-negotiable safety equipment that activates brakes if trailer detaches from vehicle.

Cost vs. Benefit: Electric brake kit installed: $400-800 Peace of mind and safety: Priceless

Q: How do I know if my wheel bearings need replacement?

Warning Signs:

• Grinding, rumbling, or roaring noise from wheel
• Excessive heat from hub after driving (too hot to touch)
• Wheel wobbles or has play when jacked up
• Grease leaking from hub
• Uneven tire wear on affected wheel

How to Test:

1. Jack up trailer securely
2. Grab tire at 12 and 6 o’clock positions
3. Try to rock wheel in and out
4. Any play = loose or worn bearings
5. Spin wheel by hand – should rotate smoothly
6. Roughness or grinding = damaged bearings

When to Replace vs. Repack:

• Repack: Bearings smooth, no pitting or damage
• Replace: Any pitting, discoloration, rough spots, or damaged races

Don’t Wait: Worn bearings can seize while driving, potentially causing wheel to come off. This is extremely dangerous.

What You’ll Need:

• Bearing kit (inner & outer bearings, races, seals)
• Marine-grade wheel bearing grease
• Seal driver or large socket
• Bearing packer (or do by hand)
• Spindle nut socket
• Cotter pins

Not Confident in DIY? Wheel bearing service typically costs $80-150 per wheel at a shop – well worth it for peace of mind.

Q: Can I upgrade to a larger axle for more capacity?

A: Usually yes, but several factors must be considered:

What Limits You:

1. Frame strength – Can the trailer frame handle increased weight?
2. Tire capacity – Will current wheels/tires support new rating?
3. Brake capacity – Do brakes match new axle rating?
4. Spring perches – Will new axle mount to existing spring locations?
5. Tow vehicle – Can your vehicle safely tow increased weight?

Common Upgrade Path:

• 2,000 lb axle → 3,500 lb axle ✓ Usually straightforward
• 3,500 lb axle → 5,200 lb axle ✓ May require reinforcement
• Single to tandem axle ⚠️ Requires major frame modification

What Else Needs Upgrading:

• Tires (load range must match new capacity)
• Brakes (if adding capacity beyond 3,000 lbs)
• Wheels (if bolt pattern changes)
• Coupler (may need larger size)
• Safety chains (rated for new GVWR)

Our Advice: Call us at 903.572.0288 with your trailer info and intended use. We’ll help determine if upgrade is feasible and what components you’ll need.

Warning: Increasing capacity may affect trailer registration and insurance. Check with your state DMV.

Q: What causes one brake to lock up while others work fine?

Most Common Causes:

1. Contaminated Brake Shoes

• Grease or oil on brake lining from leaking seal
• Shoes glazed from overheating
• Fix: Replace brake shoes and seal, clean drum thoroughly

2. Stuck or Corroded Adjusters

• Self-adjuster mechanism seized
• Brake adjusted too tight
• Fix: Free up adjuster, back off adjustment, lubricate moving parts

3. Weak Return Springs

• Springs lose tension over time
• Brake doesn’t fully release
• Fix: Replace return springs (inexpensive but critical)

4. Corroded Slide Pins or Pivot

• Brake assembly can’t move freely
• Uneven force application
• Fix: Clean and lubricate all moving parts

5. Wiring Issue

• Too much power to one brake (damaged resistor in circuit)
• One brake getting full 12V while others get less
• Fix: Check wiring, test voltage at each brake assembly

How to Diagnose:

1. Jack up wheel that locks
2. Spin by hand while assistant activates brakes
3. Should grab smoothly and release completely
4. If stays engaged, pull drum and inspect
5. Look for oil, glazing, or stuck components

Prevention:

• Adjust brakes annually
• Inspect brake components during bearing service
• Replace springs every 2-3 years
• Keep grease away from brake areas

READY TO ORDER OR NEED HELP?

Get Expert Assistance

Phone: 903.572.0288
Hours: Monday – Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM CST

Location:
Lone Star Trailer Parts
1495 County Road 3320
Mount Pleasant, TX 75455

What We Can Help With

✅ Part identification and compatibility
✅ Troubleshooting and diagnostics
✅ Installation guidance and support
✅ Bulk and dealer pricing quotes
✅ Emergency rush orders
✅ Custom trailer solutions
✅ Warranty claims and returns

Why Choose Lone Star Trailer Parts?

✓ 30+ Years in Business – We’ve seen and solved it all
✓ 10,000+ Parts in Stock – Fast shipping, same-day in many cases
✓ 200+ Dealers Served – Trusted by professionals nationwide
✓ Expert Staff – Real trailer experience, not just parts sellers
✓ Quality Brands – Dexter, Lippert, Taskmaster, and more
✓ All 50 States – We ship anywhere in the USA

RELATED RESOURCES

Browse By Category:

• Axles & Suspension Parts
• Tires & Wheels
• Brake Components & Kits
• Electrical & Lighting
• Couplers, Hitches & Hardware
• Fenders & Body Parts
• Maintenance & Chemicals

Learn More About:

• Cargo Trailer Parts
• Dump Trailer Parts
• Equipment Trailer Parts
• Texas Bragg Trailer Parts
• Boat Trailer Parts

Customer Resources:

• Installation Guides Library
• Video Tutorials (Coming Soon)
• Safety Checklists & Forms
• Maintenance Log Templates
• Warranty Information

CONNECT WITH US

Lone Star Trailer Parts

• Website: lonestartrailer-parts.com
• Phone: 903.572.0288
• Email: [if you have one]

Texas Bragg Trailers (Manufacturing)

• HQ Phone: 903.572.3674
• Belton Location: 254.939.2755

Follow Us:

OUR COMMITMENT TO YOU

At Lone Star Trailer Parts, we understand that your trailer is more than just equipment – it’s how you make a living, enjoy your hobbies, and serve your customers. That’s why we’re committed to:

✓ Providing expert advice, not just taking orders
✓ Stocking quality parts from brands we trust
✓ Fast shipping so you’re not down longer than necessary
✓ Fair pricing whether you buy 1 part or 100
✓ Standing behind our products with solid warranties
✓ Being here when you need help with real humans who know trailers

We’re not just parts suppliers – we’re your trailer partners.